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Phitsanulok

Phitsanulok is located 236 miles to the north of Bangkok, and shares a border with Uttaradit to the North, Phichit to the South, Loei and Petchabun to the East and Kamphaeng Phet and Sukothai to the West.   It is a great place to base yourself if you want to explore the north and western part of the north east of Thailand, though don’t just think the Phitsanulok is a handy stopever destination – it has plenty of attractions in its own right and is emerging as a promising tourist destination.
 
The province covers 10,585sqkm, and is divided into nine districts, or “amphoes”: Bang Rakam, Muang, Nakhon Thai, Phrom Priram, Wat Bot, Bang Krathum, Chat Trakan, Noen Ma Prang and Wang Thong. Much of the land is flatland, though roughly a third of the province, to the north and east, is taken up with mountain ranges, where there are plenty of national parks and waterfalls to explore, a popular place with trekkers and nature enthusiasts. 
 
The city itself straddles the Maenam Nan and has Maenam Kwae Noi running through the centre, giving it its local (and historical) name of Song Kwae City (song meaning two, and kwae meaning river). 
 
Historically, Phitsanulok is a fascinating place – it was the birthplace of King Naresuan the Great, who ruled over the Ayutthaya Kingdom between 1590 and 1605, and who declared the independence of Ayutthaya from Burmese control in 1584, and who is well known in Thai folklore for having won a seingle hand combat on the back of an elephant against the Crown Prince of Burma. It has long been an important political and strategic centre, and was a significant recruitment centre when Ayutthaya needed troops to wage war against Burma. The city was also capital of Thailand for a quarter of a century during the reign of King Boromtrailokanat, who resided in the province permanently between 1463 and 1487. The province has been inhabited since Khmer days, and was a wealthy area during the Ayutthaya and Sukhotahi eras.
 
There are numerous historical ruins to explore, including remains of the ancient community that existed here between 2000 and 4000 years ago. Archaeological finds in the region include an old stone axe. The ancient temple at Wat Chula Mani, just a couple of miles south of Phitsanulok city, was constructed even before the Sukhothai Kingdom came to power. 
Getting To Phitsanulok
By Road
There are buses departing from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Mochit 2) to Phitsanulok. If you are travelling by car, take Highway 1 to Wang Noi, and take Highway 32 to Nakhon Sawan Province, passing through Ayutthaya, Ang Thong and Sing Buri provinces. From there, take Highway 117 to Phitsanulok, a total distance of 236 miles. Alternatively, you can take the same route to Sing Buri, and then join Highway 11, then Highway 12, and travel to Phitsanulok via Wang Thong, which is longer, but passes through some interesting places – total distance is 281 miles.
 
By Rail
There are daily train services from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station to Phiutsanulok, leaving 14 times a day between 7.05am and 11.30pm. There are also express trains that depart five times a day between 8.24 and 11.10pm. 
 
By Air
Thai Airways International operates several direct flights per day from Bangkok to Phitsanulok, which takes only 45 minutes. 


Getting Around Phitsanulok
If you want to hire a car, then there is a Budget car rental office at Phitsanulok Airport, and an Avis office next to the Youth Hostel. Travelling around the town is easy by public transport as it is relatively compact. There are sam lor, which cost around 30-50 baht per journey, and there are also non air-conditioned buses.


Top Things to See and Do in Phitsanulok
  1. Temples
There are many, many temples in the region which are well worth visiting.
Wat Ratburana is one of the main attractions in the town, and was built under order by King Borom Trailokanat. The temple includes a three headed Naga, the mythical serpent in Buddhist belief) over the eaves.
Wat Phra Si Mahathat, also known locally as Wat Yai, this is the most important temple in Phitsanulok. It is located at the foot of the Naresuan Brige on the city side of the river, and was built in 1357. It is also home to Phra Phutthachinnarat, which is widely believed to be the most beautiful Buddha image in the whole country. This large bronze statue was cast in 1357 under order of King Maha Thamma Racha I of the Sukhothai era, and its unique feature is the flame-like halo, which is a symbol of spiritual radiance. The statue was coated in gold by the order of King Ekatotarot in 1931 (he even gave some of his own gold regalia to be beaten into gold plate, and he himself was involved in covering the statue with it), and it is a stunning sight, and one that both Thais and foreigners flock to come and see – it comes second only to the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok’s Grand Palace in terms of respects paid to a statue, and most contemporary Buddha images use this statue as a model. There is an annual celebration to honour the statue in late January each year. The statue is set behind pearl inlaid wooden doors, which are impressive in their own right. Outside, there is a 36m prang, build in early Ayutthaya style, with staircases leading up to where a Buddha relic is enshrined.
Wat Nang Phaya,  built around the same time as Wat Ratburana, which is also nearby, the temple is famous for its wide collection of Nang Phaya, small Buddha images which are used as amulets, which were found under the temple.
Wat Chula Mani is located on the east bank of the Nan River, about three miles from town, and is the oldest temple in Phitsanulok. It was built before the birth of the Sukhothai Kingdom, and was once at the heart of the original town.   The temple has a long history, and was where King Borom Trailokanat and 2000 of his followers were ordained as monks in 1416. There is also a Holy Footprint and an inscription stone, which was built by King Narai the Great. The prang is much studied as it is of both historical and archaeological interest, given its individual style and pattern.
Wat Chedi Yot Thong is located just outside the city walls, and is the only temple in the province that has a lotus bud shaped Chedi, built in the traditional Sukhothai style.
Wat Aranyik is a Sukhothai style temple and is surrounded by moats.
 
  1. National Parks
This part of Thailand is rich in national parks – here are some of the best:
Namtok Chat Trakan National Park is located about 90 miles from Phitsanulok City, and covers around 58,750 acres. Well known features of the park include the famous seven tiered waterfall which cascades down mountain cliffs – there is a beach and swimming pond at the lowest tier, and you can also see carvings of prehistoric symbols on the cliffside. The park is easily accessed from the city – there are buses seven times a day, or by car, take Highway 12 to Ban Yang, and from there route 2013 to Nakhon Thai District, and finally route 1143 to Chat Trakan. Camping is permitted within the park, though permission must be sought first.
Soi Dao National Park straddles the districts of Chat Trakan and also Nam Pard District (part of Uttaradit Province), and stretches along he border with Laos. The park’s highest peak, Khao Soi Dao is 2102m above sea level and is swathed in mist all year round. One  of the main features of the park is a savannah field which is found in amongst dense pine trees. The park enjoys a cool climate year round, and is home to several species of wildflowers, even wild orchids. There is also a five tiered waterfall, the Namtok Phu Soi Dao, which is found near the park office. You can stay overnight in the park (with advance permission granted by Part Officers only), and one of the nicest places to stay is Larn Paa Son, which is a four to five hour walk along mountain trails. There is also another waterfall, Namtok Sai Tip, where there is a spectacular moss and lichen covered cliff. There are buses departing from Phitsanulok daily, or you can travel by car, passing through Wat Bot, Ban Pong Cae, Chat Trakan and Phu Soi Dao en route, a distance of 111 miles.
Kaeng Chet Khwae National Park in the province’s Nakhon Thai district, covers around 54,500 acres, mainly covered with lush forests and mountain ranges. The major attractions of this park include waterfalls and scenic look outs. Acommodation is available in the park.
Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park , just over 80 miles from Phitsanulok, is fascinating from both a scenic and historical point of view – here, you can learn the story of various national political conflicts as this was the strategic HQ of the Communist Party of Thailand between 1967 and 1982, and was a battlefield between the CPT forces and the Royal Thai Army. The mountainous nature, and its remote location made it the ideal place for the CPT to wage their war, and during this time, the park had all the facilities necessary for CPT members – a political school, a hospital, residences, administrative buildings and even an air raid shelter were all set up here, and the remains are still on view today. The park itself is comprised of lush forests, some spectacular waterfalls, and some fascinating rock formations. Overnight accommodation is available, though advance booking must be made with the National Park Division.
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park straddles the border between Phitsanulok and Petchabun Provinces, covering more than 300,000 acres, and is comprised of virgin jungle, mountains, pine forest, wild flower meadows and some great trekking routes. At the heart of the park is Thung Non Son, a flatland on the top of a mountain, where wildflowers bloom between October and December.   There are also rapids, which are becoming increasingly popular with white water rafters.
 
 
3.       Museums and Galleries
There are a number of interesting museums in Phitsanulok, and one well worth a visit if you are interested in learning more about Thai ways of life is the Sgt. Maj. Dr Thavi Folklore Museum, on Wisutkasat Road, around three miles from the city centre. The museum features a collection of traditional style Thai pavilions in which you will find a series of antique items, including arts, pottery, agricultural tools and household items, as well as photographs showing Phitsanulok through the ages. The founder of the museum is well known for his knowledge of Northern Thai folklore, as well as indigenous art and sculpture, and he is also the owner of the Buddha Casting Foundry which is opposite the museum (see below).   The museum is open between Wednesday and Sunday from 8.30am until 4.30pm. Another interesting museum is the Boathouse museum, located within the Nan Riverside Park, on the eastern banks of the river in the town centre. The museum showcases the daily lives of those who live aboard houseboats, which themselves are a symbol of the province, and line both sides of the Nan River. Admission to the museum is free. There is a museum and art/culture gallery on the Sanambin Campus of Naresuan University, whose aim is to promote and preserve Thai traditional arts and culture.   The art gallery itself houses more than 100 masterpieces by famous Thai artists and the museum exhibits many traditional handicrafts as well as manuscripts and agricultural tools. The gallery is open each day from 9am until 6pm.
 
 
  1. Shrine of King Naresuan the Great
Located across the river from the main town, the Shrine of King Naresuan the Great is within the compound that now houses the Phitsanulok Phittayakom School. It was constructed in 1961 on the site of the Chan Palace where the king was born in 1555, and brought up, and is a showcase of Thai respect for their much loved and admired king who liberated Thailand from Burmese rule. The shrine features a seated image of the King pouring warer from a gold jug, which is said to symbolise the declaration of independence of the Ayutthaya Kingdom from Myanmar. From the city, cross the Naresuan Bridge and turn right. The shrine is about half a mile further on the left.
 
  1. City Walls and Moats
Not much remains of the city walls that once surrounded Phitsanulok, which were built under order of King Borom Trailokanat to protect the city against attacks from the Lanna and Burmese kingdoms. The walls were later destroyed by King Rama I, in order to stop any enemies from using them as shelter for their troops, but sections of wall remain near Wat Noi and the City Police Station. There are also moats surrounding the city, the best examples of which are in the western part of the city, running parallel to the Phra Ruang Road.
 
  1. Buranathai Buddha Casting Foundry
Situated opposite the St Maj Dr Thavis Museum is this small bronze Buddha image casting foundry, which is unique in the province. Visitors to the foundry can watch the craftsmen at work on the reproduction of the Phra Buddha Chinnarat images – you can watch the casting process at all stages by walking along the production line. The foundry is open between Wednesday and Sunday from 8.30am until 4.30pm.
 
  1. White Water Rafting
In Wang Thong District, along the Maenam Kek there are some great rapids which make for an exhilarating white water rafting experience, combined with some stunning natural surroundings. The trip takes around 2 ½ hours, and is best done between June and October. Reservations can be made at most of the hotels along Highway 12.


 
 
 




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