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Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi is the third largest of the 76 Thai provinces, after Chaign Mai and Nakhon Ratchasima, covering approximately 19,473 sqkm. Located only 80 miles to the west of Bangkok, Kanchanaburi borders with Myanmar to the west, Uthai Thani and Tak provinces to the north, Nakhon Pathom and Suphan Buri to the east and Ratchaburi to the south.   The north and west of the province are dominated by mountains and high plains, and the Thanon Thongchai Range forms the border between Thailand and neighbouring Myanmar. The province’s two major rivers have their sources in this range, the Maenam Khwae Noi and Maenam Khwae Yai, and as a result the area boasts numerous waterfalls and wildlife sanctuaries, which are now popular tourist attractions. Waterfalls, caves, national parks, rivers, forest and reservoirs are all on the must see list of attractions in Kanchanaburi, and there are multifarious activities on offer within these stunning natural surroundings, including canoeing, caving, trekking, rafting, mountain biking, bird-watching, elephant trekking, and even star gazing!   Sites worth visiting including the stunning and unique Erawan Falls, a seven tier waterfall set against a backdrop of rough jungle in the national park of the same name, which are certainly amongst the most beautiful waterfalls in all Asia.
 
The provincial city is situated where the two river tributaries meet and form the Maenam Mae Khlong, which is where you can also find the infamous Bridge on the River Khwae (Kwai) and the Death Railway, World War Two locations immortalised in numerous books and films. 
 
Thanks to the wealth of natural attractions and the dark recent history of the region, Kanchanburi now welcomes more visitors than any other province in the west of Thailand, making tourism one of the major industries, alongside the more traditional industries of agriculture, sugar production and jewellery making.
 
Kanchanaburi has a fascinating history. Originally the city of the same name was established by King Rama I as a first line of defence against Burmese invasion, who it was feared might use the old invasion route through the Three Pagodas Pass on the border between the two countries. The region came to international prominence, albeit notorious, during the Second World War – see below for full details of Second World War locations in the province.
Getting to Kanchanaburi
There are plenty of transport options when it comes to travelling to Kanchanaburi from Bangkok.
 
By Road
There are frequent services on both air conditioned and non air-conditioned buses from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal throughout the day, the former leaving every 25 minutes and the latter leaving roughly every 15 minutes between 4am and 10pm. The journey takes around two to three hours depending on traffic and stops on the way. Alternatively, take a minibus from the Khao San Road, which takes two hours. You can also get a bus to Kanchanaburi from Nakhon Pathom, which takes 1 ½ hours. There are also buses from Ratchaburi and Suphan Buri bus stations, taking between 2 ½ and 3 hours.
 
If you are brave enough to tackle the traffic leaving Bangkok, then it is a two hour drive along Highway 4, travelling through Nakhon Chaisi, Nakhon Pathom, Ban Pong, Tha Maka, and Tha Muang (Ratchaburi). Alternatively take Highway 338 to Nakhon Chaisi province before turning onto Highway 4 which will take you directly to Kanchanaburi.
 
By Train
Trains from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi leave from Bangkok Noi Railway Station (Thonburi) twice a day. On this service, only third class seats are available and the journey takes around three hours. There is also a weekend special train that leaves Bangkok’s main station at Hua Lamphong at 6.30am, returning at 7.55pm – this service operates on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, and includes stopovers at places of interest along the way including Phra Pathom Chedi, the Death Railway Bridge, and also a minibus transfer to the Phrasat Mueang Singh Historical Park. There are also some special steam trains that run between Wang Pho and Kanchanaburi.


Getting Around Kanchanaburi
It is relatively easy to get around Kanchanaburi – the town itself is accessible on foot to those with a certain amount of stamina, but there are plenty of alternatives for those who are not -   either join an organised tour that will take in all the major sights (there are numerous travel agencies operating), or guide yourself – it is possible to hire bikes or motorbikes by the day (motorbikes range from between 200 and 500 baht per 24 hour period) from hotels, shops and guesthouses along the Maenam Khwae Road, and it is a perfectly manageable cycle ride out to such sights as the Bridge over the River Kwai, the JEATH war museum and the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery. You can also rent cars either by the day or week from any of the outlets on Saeng Chuto Road. There are also plenty of tuk tuks and rickshaws. 
 
It is also quite straightforward to travel between the different districts of Kanchanburi province, and the major points are linked by a convenient and regular bus service. The main points of interest include Bo Phloi, Than Lot Cave, Erawan Waterfall within the Erawan National Park, and Thong Pha Phum. Most of the buses that link these destinations are non air-conditioned. It is also popular to travel around the province by train, which is a cheap, reliable and scenic means of transport. Take the train from Kanchanaburi to Namtok Station, near the Namtok Sai Yok Waterfall – the train stops of the Bridge over the River Kwai.


Top Ten Things to See and Do in Kanchanaburi
  1. Second World War Sites
The history of this region of Thailand is inextricably linked with the Second World War and the atrocities inflicted upon the Allied Forces at the hands of the Japanese invaders. There are several key sites to explore, which include: 
The Kanchanaburi War Cemetery (Don Rak), which is situated on Saeng Chu To Road (Highway 323) on the route into Kanchanaburi Town. This pristine, well maintained cemetery is the final resting place of the 6982 Allied Prisoners of War who died during the construction of the Death Railway; 
The JEATH War Museum, whose name originates from the names of the primary countries involved in the construction of the railway, namely Japan, England, Australia, Thailand and Holland, can be found within the Wat Chai Chumpon, and is a reconstruction of the detention camp where the POWs were kept. The thatched hut contains various items of memorabilia, many of which were donated by survivors of the camp. The museum is open daily from 8.30am until 6pm, and entry costs 30 baht;
The Bridge over the River Khwae, or the Death Railway Bridge, is perhaps the best known of the Second World War sites, thanks in no small part to the number of books and films about the subject. The river cross the Maenam Khwae Yai, a tributary of the Maenam Mae Khlong. When Thailand was occupied by the Japanese during the war, the Imperial Army imported this iron bridge from Java, which was then reassembled by the POWs under the supervision of the Japanese, with the intention of forming a strategic rail route into Myanmar, where the Japanese were planning to secure supplies which would aid them in their plan to conquer other nations within Western Asia. The rail route was 260 miles long, of which 190 are in Thailand, the remaining 70 in Burma, and passed through the Three Pagodas Pass (see below). Construction of the railway began in September 1942, and was completed on Christmas Day the following year. It is believed that during the building of the bridge 16,000 Allied POWs died, as well as 90,000 labourers from Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and Myanmar. The bridge was rebuilt after the war, and is still in use today, and there is an annual celebration to commemorate the Allied attack in 1945 that spelt the end of the Japanese occupation of Thailand. There is a museum close to the bridge which houses various items from the war, including uniforms and photographs, which is open daily from 7am until 6.30pm. 
The Thailand – Burma Railway Centre, on the western side of the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, is an interactive museum dedicated to telling the story of the construction of the railway. The museum is open daily from 9am until 5pm and admission costs 80 baht. 
The HellFire Pass Memorial Museum tells the story of the Australian POWs who, in 1943, were forced to carve this 500m long and 26m deep pass from the mountainside for the Death Railway to pass through. Admission to the museum is free, and it is open daily from 9am until 4pm.   
The Chong Kai War Cemetery is on the site of Chong Kai, which was once a POW camp. In the immaculately maintained cemetery lie the remains of 1740 Allied POWs.
 
  1. National Parks
This part of Thailand boasts more than its fair share of National Parks – here are some of the most famous: 
the Erawan National Park, 40 miles from Kanchanaburi on Route 3199, covers 550sqkm, has as its best known feature the seven tiered Erawan Waterfall, which is one of the most beautiful in the country. The pool at the second tier is great for swimming. The park is the ideal place for some trekking, and there are both camping facilities and bungalow accommodation, making overnight stays possible. Entrance to the park costs 400 baht for adults. You can catch a bus from Kanchanaburi Bus Terminal all the way to the waterfall – the journey takes around 1 ½ hours and services depart every 50 minutes between 8am and 5.20pm. 
The Sai Yok National Park a 300sqkm park 65 miles from Kanchanaburi, is also home to a well known waterfall, the Sai Yok Yai Waterfall, as well as dense teak forest, and numerous small mammals and birds, including the smallest mammal in the world, the 2g Kittis Hog Nosed Bat. The waterfall is so beautiful it features heavily in Thai songs and poems. Bungalow accommodation, river rafts, campsites and a food market are available within the park.
The Sri Nakarin National Park is located 66 miles from Kanchanaburi, and occupies 1532sqkm. In comparison with some of the other national parks, this one is relatively inaccessible, meaning you need a motorbike, pick up truck of 4WD vehicle to get here. Alternatively you can take a boat from the Tha Kradan Pier, 7 miles beyond the entrance to the Sri Nakarin Dam. 
Thong Pha Phum National Park is located around 37 miles from Thong Pha Phum district on highway 3272, and is broadly comprised of forest land, with a couple of great view points at Doi Tong and Noen Kut Doi, the latter of which offers wonderful panoramic views of the mountains around, including Khao Chang, the highest peak in the park. There are three different nature trails leading up to waterfalls, which are all in the evergreen forest of Tombon Pilok on the Burmese border. To access these, you will need a 4WD vehicle and the services of a guide. To get to the park, follow Highway 323 from Kanchanaburi to Amphoe Thong Pha Phum, where you need to turn onto Highway 3272 for about 35 miles until you reach the park HQ. There is accommodation and a campsite within the park, and admission costs 400 baht for adults.
Tham Than Lot National Park  is also known as Chaloem Rattanakosin National Park, and is a relatively small park, just 54sqkm of forest, including several caves and waterfalls, including the famous Than Lot Noi and Than Lot Yai caves, accessible by following a 1 ½ mile nature trail along a stream. Both caves have some stunning formations, including the world’s tallest stalagmite pillar. The caves are best visited between February and April, and it is recommended that you hire a guide for your trip.
Khao Laem National Park is located about 120 miles from Kanchanaburi on Highway 323, and covers an area of 815sqkm, and incorporates forest, the Khwae Noi River and the Khao Laem Dam. It is a pleasant park, and is a peaceful place to camp. One of the main features of the park is the Namtok Katen Cheng, a stunning waterfall with 23 levels. To get there, you need to walk from the National Park office for around three hours. You can trek through the jungle on the way back. Unlike some other falls, this one is not best viewed in the rainy season.  Admission to the park costs 400 baht for adults and there are accommodation options and camping facilities available.
Lam Khlong Ngu National Park is home to a number of caves and grottoes, notable amongst which are the Tham Sao Hin, Tham Nok Nang and Tham Namtok. If you are planning to explore the caves in this national park, then prior arrangements need to be made with the park authorities, and you must engage the services of a local guide. Admission to the park is 400 baht per adult. Tham Sao Hin, some four miles from the mouth of Lam Khlong Ngu has a floor to ceiling column formed when stalactite met stalagmite and joined – at a height of 62.5m it is the tallest rock column in the country. To access the cave, take a boat north from Sri Nakarin Dam to the mouth of Lam Khlong Ngu, followed by a two hour wake to the cave, passing by several waterfalls en route. You can also get there by ar from the Erawan Falls via Tham Thra That, then on to Ban Phu Toei followed by a three hour walk to the cave. Whichever route you take, you will need a National Park guide accompanying you. The best time to visit the cave is between February and April, as otherwise the water level is too high. Tham Nok Nang is best known for its flocks of swallows that nest here, and the spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. As above, guidance from a National Park ranger is necessary, as is a certain degree of fitness. Tham Namtok is also cave with a creek flowing through it, and has underground water that falls down the rock to create a 17 tiered waterfall. There are also so spectacular rock formations throughout the cave which is some 2710m long. Do not visit during the rainy season as the water level will be too high to access the cave. Tham Yai is the most spacious cave in the province – the mouth is around 50m wide, and the chamber can reputedly house thousands of people. 
 
3.  Ban Nong Khao

Ban Nong Khao is one of the 13 districts of Kanchanaburi, just  seven miles from the city.  The inhabitants of the village live a very traditional way of life, earning a living predominantly from the land, and carrying one traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation.  The village welcomes tourists and shows them traditional skills such as rice pounding, sugar production, rice growing, and traditional folk singing, as weel as tonsuring ceremonies.   To get to Ban Nong Khao, take Route 324 from Kanchanaburi towards Suphan Buri for around seven miles.  You can also join an organised tour.
  1. Waterfalls
This part of Thailand boasts several very famous waterfalls, some of which have already been mentioned in the National Parks section above. See below for more detailed information on the most spectacular waterfalls in the province, which are well worth a visit: Sai Yok Noi Waterfall, also called Khao Phang Waterfall, is 38 miles from Kanchanaburi townm, and is accessible via Highway 323. There are non air-conditioned buses leaving Kanchanaburi Bus station every half hour from 6am until 6.30pm, a journey which takes around two hours, and costs 25 baht. Alternatively you can take the train from Kanchanaburi to Namtok, and then go the rest of the way on foot or by local transport. Trains depart from Kanchanaburi three times a day and the one way trip costs 17 baht abd takes around two hours.
Huai Mae Khamin Waterfall is one of the main attractions in the Sri Nakarin National Park, and is a seven tiered waterfall easily accessible on foot from the park HQ. The waterfall is located close the a reservoir which is a well known tourist destination in its own right boasting some wonderful walks, as well as plentiful bird and butterfly life. Bungalow accommodation is available within the park but you are advised to take your own provisions as there are no food outlets.
Thung Nang Khruan Waterfall is located just under 120 miles from Kanchanaburi at Ban Thung Nang Khruan, not far from the Sri Nakarain Dam. It is a seven tiered waterfall that cascades down limestone rocks, and there is a good flow all year rouds. Take Highway 323 from Kanchanaburi, and continue down the road to Ban Thung Nang Khruan. From the entrance, it is a half hour walk to the first tier.
Pha Tat Waterfall is a large waterfalls in the Sri Nakarain National Park 90 miles from Kanchanaburi. There are just three tiers to the waterfall but these are both wide and high and there is a vast quantity of water cascading down, particularly in the late rainy season.
Dai Chong Thong Waterfall is located within the Khao Laem National Park, on highway 323 from Kanchanaburi. The falls flow down to the Mae Klong Dam, through fertile forest, and this is an especially spectacular sight during the rainy season
Pha Suwan Waterfall is a large waterfall with seven tiers located deep in the jungle just under 100 miles from Kanchanaburi. The waterfall is at its best between July and January. To get here, take Highway 323 from Kanchanaburi to Ban Sahakon Nikhom, before turning onto a dirt road for another eight miles. Alternatively, from Pha Tat Waterfall it is just a 40 minute wat to Pha Suwan. During rainy season, 4WD vehicles are recommended.
Takhian Thong Waterfall is located within the Tanao Si Mountains on the border between Thailand and Myanmar, and is part of the Thung Yai Naresuan Wildlife Sanctuary. Water flows through the falls all year round, and the cascades fall in many different directions, making this a particularly spectacular waterfall. To get there, follow highway 323 until you reach Sangkhla Buri, and pass the junction leading to the Three Pagodas Pass, then floow the Sangkhla Buri – Three Pagodas Pass road until you see a sign for the falls. The first level of the falls is a further half hour walk from the car-park. 
 
  1. Caves
The limestone rock that dominates this region of Thailand has led to the development, over time, of a number of spectacular caves – here are some of the most impressive and accessible:
Lawa Cave is located 47 miles from Kanchanaburi City, by the side of the Khwae Noi River. Although the entrance to the cave is very narrow, the inside is spacious and there are several different chambers, one of which, the curtain chamber, has some stunning stalactites and stalagmites. You can get to the cave either by boat or by car – you can get a chartered boat from Pak Saeng Pier, to the south west of Namtok Railway Station, which takes about 45 minutes, or by car, cross the bridge at Ban Kaeng Raboet and then continue on foot.
Tham Wang Badan, or Tham Sawan Wang Badan is within the limits of the Erawan National Park, just under 40 miles from Kanchanaburi. You can get there from Namtok Sai Yok Noi. It is a small but very deep cave, 500m long, and with two storeys. On the upper level there are various different chambers with some impressive stalagmites and stalactites, and then on the lower level there is a stream flowing through, which resembles a tunnel of water under a large boulder.
Krasae Caveis home to a number of sacred Buddha images, and is about 35 miles from Kanchanaburi, near Wang Pho Railway Station, to the side of the remaining relics of the Death Railway. The cave itself is within walking distance of the station.
Phra That Cave is a mountain cave with some very impressive stalactites and stalagmites, just under 50 miles from the city and about five miles further on from the Erawan Waterfall.
 
 
  1. Historical Parks
There are a number of historical and archaeological parks to explore within Kanchanaburi, telling the story of the city and province’s past.
Prasat Muang Sing Historical Park is one the site of Muang Singh Town, which was constructed between 857 and 1157 when the Khmer Kingdom was rich and successful. The town was subsequently abandoned until King Rama I came to the throne and re-established the town as a Kanchanaburi border town. This ancient site is situated on the banks of the Khwae Noi River, and has 800m wide, 1500m long and 5m high city walls. It is believed that this compound was the most westerly of those in the Khmer empire, that was centred in Angkor. The historical site features carvings, statues, and pottery which indicated that the city was inhabited between the 12th and 14th centuries, and even ancient remains dating back up to 2000 years have been found. At the centre of the site is the Khmer Prasat Muang Sing (or Tower of the City of Lions).  The park is open every day between 8am and 4.30pm, and admission costs 40 baht. To get there, take the train from Kanchanaburi to Tha Kilen Railway Station, and then continue on foot or by local transport to Prasat Muang Sing, just under a mile away. Trains leave Kanchanaburi twice a day – in the morning at 6.11 (arrives 7.28), 11.00 (arrives 11.59) and in the afternoon at 4.37 (arriving 5.42) The return trains leave Tha Kilen at 6.22am, 1.51pm and 4.31pm. Check for up to date times.
Phong Tuk Archaeological Site is believed to be the site of the an ancient city dating from the Davarvati period, during the 6th to 7th century AD. Many antiques and artefacts have been found here, including a Roman lamp, Buddhist plaques, and Visnu images carved in stone. Archaeological evidence discovered in the 1930s has led experts to believe than an ancient and civilised society was based here around 1000 years ago. Some of the treasures unearthed here have been moved to Wat Dong Sak, and some are in the National Museum in Bangkok. The site is around 23 miles to the south of Kanchanaburi and is accessible by road – take the Highway 323 until you see a sign to Boran Sathan Phong Tuek, then cross the Chantharubeksa Bridge.
The Nine-Army Battle Historical Park was established by the Royal Thai Army to commemorate the battle fought by King Rama I’s army against the invading Burmese army under the command of King Bodawpaya, a battle that became known as the Nine Army Battle, in 1795. The park is open daily between 8am and 5pm.
 
  1. Temples
As with anywhere in Thailand, you don’t have to go far before you find a temple to explore, and Kanchanaburi is certainly no exception. Here are some of the most impressive temples in the region:
Wat Wang Wiwekaram is the home of Luangpho Uttama, a monk much revered by the Thanis and Mons, including the Karen people and the Burmese living in the region. On the riverbank, within the Buddhist assembly hall there is an elegant marble image of the Buddha called Luangpho Khao. Under a mile from the temple itself is the Buddha Gaya Chedi, which contains relics of the Lord Buddha’s right thumb. The Burmese influence is keenly felt here, and near the pagoda there are many shops selling native Burmese products, including furniture and clothing.
Tham Mangkon Thong Temple is just over three miles from town, and is situated in a cave, only accessible by steps. The temple is renowned for the incredible image of a nun floating on the surface of a deep pool, and there is also a small museum exhibiting various ancient objects found in the area. To get there, take the bus from Kanchanaburi to Dan Makham Tia and get off at the temple.
Tham Suea Temple, located 2 ½ miles beyond the Wachiralongkorn Dam is a wonderful mixture of Thai and Chinese architectural styles and houses a huge Buddha image.
Phra Thaen Don Rang Temple is 25 miles from town, and is home to a sacred stone that is believed to have been Lord Buddha’s bed during his illness before his ascent to Nirvana.
 
  1. Museums
The Kanchanaburi Cultural Centre, nine miles out of Kanchanaburi City on the road to Sai Yok, houses various exhibits pertaining to ways of life over the years in the area. The museum is open daily between 8.30am and 4.30pm.
The Art Gallery and War Museum, not far from the Bridge on the River Kwai, is a private museum featuring various items from the war, including uniforms and weapons, and is open daily between 7am and 6,30pm. Admission costs 40 baht.
The Ban Kao National Museum is around 22 miles from the city, overlooking the Khwae Noi River on a site where Stone Age tools have previously been found. As well as this, a Neolithic burial site was found here by a Dutch POW forced to work on the Death Railway. The museum today houses skeletal remains or prehistoric man, and various artefacts dating from that time. The museum is open between Wednesday and Friday (except public holidays) from 9am until 4.30pm, and admission costs 30 baht.
 
  1. Outdoor Attractions
If you are a keen gardener, then a visit to the Suan Onanong Chuan Chom is a must – located 25 miles from Kanchanaburi, this is the largest desert rose garden in the province, covering some 64,000sqm. Visitors can tour the garden and see various different varieties of desert rose – you can even buy some to take home. The Kanchanaburi Safari Park, 25 miles from the city, is home to a wide variety of both Asian and African mammals, including lion, tigers, bears, zebras and giraffes, all living in lovely landscaped grounds. You can drive your won car, or there is also a bus service that tours the park. The park is open every day between 9am and 5pm and admission costs 300 baht for adults. If you are in need of rejuvenation, then visit the Hin Dat Hot Spring, previously known as the Kuimang Hot Spring, 80 miles from Kanchanaburi. Here you will find a well of naturally hot water, at temperatures of between 45 and 55 degrees Celsius, which was discovered by Japanese soldiers during the war. The waters here are believed to have healing properties for ailments such as rheumatism. Hotels in the Sangkhla Buri District offer jungle treks, which incorporates rowing along the Huai Song Ka Lia, elephant riding and rafting. Situated near Wang Pho Railway Station is the Wang Pho Elephant Camp, where you can go rafting, ride an elephant or just sit back and watch a show. The centre is open daily between 8am and 6pm. The Kanchanburi Monkey School is situated on the route to Khao Pun Cave on Highway 3228, and here you can see 17 monkeys and one gibbon, all of whom were rescued and were in a poor state, now they have been trained to harvest coconuts and perform various tricks to entertain the crowds. The School is open between 10am and 4.30pm and admission costs 150 baht. 150 miles from Kanchanaburi City is the famous Three Pagodas Pass, on the Thai-Burmese border, which although previously a strategic military base, is now a small border market. If you want to cross the border, then you will need to obtain a pass which will allow you into the Burmese settlements, for which a charge of US$10 is applied. Depending on the prevailing political situation, the border point is open between 8am and 6pm.
 
  1. Golf
As with other locations within Thailand, golf is a very popular activity in Kanchanaburi and there are several golf courses to choose from, catering for every standard of golfer. Some of the best courses are listed here: The Blue Sapphire Golf Course in Bo Phloi District (18 holes, par 72, 6,195 yards); the Evergreen Hills Golf Club in Tha Muang District (18 holes, par 72, 6,879 yards); Grand Garden Golf Club in Muang District (18 holes, par 72, 6,943 yards); Green World Golf Club in Thong Pha Phum District (18+1 holes, par 72, 6,020 yards); Mission Hills Golf Club in Tha Muang (18 holes, par 72, 6,364 yards – designed by Jack Nicklaus); Nichigo Golf Country Club, in Muang District (27 holes, par 108, 3,575 + 3,566 + 3,657 yards); River Kwai Golf Club, Sai Yok District (18 holes, par 72, 3,327 yards); and the Barrington Saiyoke Golf Club, also in Sai Yok District (18 holes, par 72)
 
 
 
 
 




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