Ayuthaya

Ayuttaya
 
Founded in 1350 by King U-Thong, Ayutthaya, or to give it its full name, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, was the capital of Thailand for some 417 years, and was ruled by 33 different kings from different dynasties until it was sacked by the Burmese in 1767, and is today one of the country’s foremost tourist destinations, as it boasts many ancient ruins and artefacts. 
 
Located some 48 miles to the north of Bangkok, and therefore in easy reach for a day trip or an extended stay, Ayuttahya is located in the province of the same name, which cover 2556 sqkm and is divided into 16 districts. Ayutthaya, for almost 200 years after its establishment a peaceful place, was at that time one of the biggest and most prosperous cities in all Indochina. Its heyday came at the turn of the 16th century when its territory extended beyond just present day Thailand, and incorporated significant portions of modern day Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia, and the city itself counted three palaces and over 400 temples amongst its glittering buildings. It even had diplomatic links with European nations including France, the Netherlands, Portugal and England. A comprehensive guide to the history of the town and province can be found at the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, the town’s historical park. The city boasted three palaces and over 400 temples.
 
But in the mid 16th century, the first of many wars against the Burmese started. Ayutthaya was in turn peaceful and turbulent in the intervening years until it was destroyed beyond repair by the Burmese invasion of 1767, when King Taksin the Great moved the capital city from the town to Thonburi (from where it moved to Bangkok 15 years after the death of the king).  Today, the wealth of fascinating ruins and features has meant that its historical heart, or Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, features on the UNESCO World Heritage Site List.
 
In terms of what there is to see in Ayutthaya today, there are crumbling ruins which despite their state of disrepair are still impressive, as well as obelisks, or prangs, which show the architectural influences of the Khmer or ancient Cambodian style, and other structures displaying a mixture of Sukothai Buddhist influences ant Hindu inspired Khmer motifs. 
 
Getting To Ayutthaya
By Road
There are numerous buses that run between Bangkok’s Northern Bus terminal and the main bus terminal in Ayutthaya, and these leave Bangkok roughly every 20 minutes or so between 5am and 7pm, cost around 30 baht and take two hours. For a bit more comfort you can opt for the air conditioned service which follows the same route, operates every 20 minutes from 5.40am until 7.20pm and costs 47 baht and takes 1 ½ hours if traffic is flowing!   Allow at least two hours for the journey though as there are frequent stops on the way and traffic into or out of Bangkok can be very heavy.   Alternatively there is minivan service direct from the Victory Monument to Ayutthaya, which takes about an hour and costs 60 baht. The bus station in Ayutthaya is on the south side of the city, adjacent to the Chao Phrom Market.
 
If you are brave enough to attempt a self drive, then take Highway 1 from Bangkok, turning onto Highway 32 and follow the signs to Ayutthaya. There are several other routes – consult your car hire office for up to date information on any traffic issues that may help you decide which route to take.  
 
By Train
There are trains to Ayutthaya from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station every hour between 4.20am and 10pm, and the journey takes around 1 ½ hours. Second class non-airconditioned service costs around 35 baht, and third class just 20 baht. For a bit more comfort, you can book a second class air conditioned ticket for 315 baht. The train station in Ayutthaya is located to the east of the central island.
 
By Boat
It is not possible to travel between Bangkok and Ayutthaya on a public transport boat service, though there are several tour companies who offer luxury cruises from Bangkok to Bang Pa In which include side trips by bus to Ayutthaya. These vary in cost between around 1500 and 1800 baht and include lunch. If you fancy a more leisurely trip, then why not take a two day trip on board a converted rice barge – these costs around 4800 baht.
 


Getting Around Ayutthaya
The best way of getting around Ayutthaya is either on foot, or by tuk tuk or songthaew, which will cost you around 10-30 baht for any trip around the town. Alternatively, why not hire a bicyle to tour the ruins – if you don’t fancy this, then you can charter a samlor or tuk tuk by the hour/day to explore the temple complexes, but this can work out relatively expensive (150 baht per hour or around 500 baht for the day). There is also a hop on hop off “tram” service around the main tourist attractions – tickets cost 20 baht and are valid for the whole day. 
 
For a different perspective of the ruins, you can charter a boat from the Tha Chan Kasem Pier next to Hua Ro Market, which will take you on a semicircular tour of the island, and gain you access to some of the otherwise more inaccessible ruins. A long tailed boat for around 8 people will cost around 400 baht for a 2-3 hour trip and will usually include visits to Wat Phanan Choeng, Wat Chai Wattnaram and Wat Phutthaisawan.


Top Ten Things to See and Do In Ayuthaya

Most of the main attractions in Ayutthaya are on the western half of the island, and the modern heart of the city lies on the eastern side. There are also other places worth visiting off the main island.



1. Temples
There are so many temples in Ayutthaya you are truly spoilt for choice! Here are some of the best known and most easily accessible for visitors: Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, in the south east of the island on Bang Pa –In Road, is visible from most of the town, as it has a lofty 60m high chedi that rises above the surrounding buildings and ruins. It is perhaps one of the most photographed sites in the region, and as well as the golden cloth swathed chedi, also boasts a large reclining Buddha in saffron robes and a courtyard lined with Buddha images all dressed in saffron robes. It was built in 1900 with the purpose of creating a centre for Buddhist Studies. Admission is 20 baht. Wat Phra Si Sanphet, on the site of the previous royal palace (1350 – 1448), is the biggest temple in Ayutthaya and is best known for its row of chedis. It was once home to a 16m high Buddha which was covered in 340kg of gold but this was destroyed by the Burmese when they burnt the temple down. It is to be found within the grounds of an old Royal Palace. Entrance fee is 30 baht. Next door to the temples is the Viharn Phra Mongkhol Bopitah where you can see a large bronze cast Buddha image. From the temple you can also gain entry to the ruins of the Ancient Palace, though there is not that much to see here now. Wat Thammikarat, on U-Thong Road, in front of the royal palace, is home to the remains of a large chedi and wiharn, which has a large tree that is growing out of the side of the wall. It used to house a huge bronze Buddha image which is now on display at the museum (see below) Wat Ratchaburana is famous for its tall prang, or obelisk, that is a clear landmark if you are approaching from the east. In 1958, many golden statues were found here – some were stolen, and the rest are now on view in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum (see below). Wat Phra Mahathat, opposite Wat Ratchaburana, is a big temple, which was once a royal monastery, that was completely ransacked by the Burmese. Here you can see row upon row of headless Buddhas, as well as see the famous sight of a tree that has grown around a Buddha head. In 1956 during an excavation by the Fine Arts department, Buddha relics were found in the stupa, in a seven layer reliquary. Entrance fee is 30 baht. Wat Phra Ram comprises a huge obelisk and some smaller outbuildings which are generally in a fairly ruined state, though the top of the obelisk is intact – there are staircases up the sides of the obelisk from which you will get some great views over Ayutthaya. Entrance fee is 30 baht. Wat Nah Phra Meru, just to the east of town, houses the biggest bronze Buddha image in Ayutthaya, in a large viharn. Wat Phanancherng, located on the Bang Pa-In Road, just out of the town centre, is a functional temple which is home to what is believed to be the oldest bronze Buddha image in the town. There is also a room off the main hall which contains some Buddha images and some unique brightly coloured paintings offset with gold. Entry charge is 20 baht. Wat Panan Choeng is an old monastery and is worth a visit to see the largest ancient Buddha image in the country, called Luang Po To; Wat Chaiwatthanaram is one of the most attractive and impressive Buddhist monasteries in Thailand, built in an architectural style similar to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and therefore it is thought that the temple complex might have been constructed in honour of King Prasatthong’s victory over Cambodia in the 17th century. Wat Na Phrameru Rachikaram is the only temple that was not destroyed during the war with Burma, as it was the place that the then kings of Thailand and Burma agreed a peace deal.

2. Museums
The Chao Sam Phraya National Museum on Rojana Road, opposite the city wall, is where many of the Buddha heads that are absent from the temple sites can be found. It is also home to the golden regalia from Wat Ratchaburana, and some famous carved panels and local artefacts. There is a Thai pavilion which contains relics of the Lord Buddha and some artefacts that are more than 500 years old. The museum is open between 9am and 4pm from Wednesday to Sunday, and entrance costs 30 baht. The Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre, on the other side of the road from the Chao Sam Phraya Museum, is a modern museum that tells the story of life in the town over the years and is dedicated to the study of the town, particularly during the years it was the nation’s capital. It is an interesting place to visit, but entry charge is steep in comparison with most in Thailand, at 100 baht. It is open daily between 9am and 4pm.

3. Bang Pa-In Royal Summer Palace
This is one of the most famous attractions in the area, and is located 10 miles south of Ayutthaya town – you can get the train directly from Bangkok to Bang Pa In Station, and then take local transport for the remaining 2 ½ mile journey. Built by King Prasat Thong, the palace was a country residence for Kings of the Ayutthayan period, though fell into abandonment when Bangkok superseded Ayutthaya as capital. Later, King Rama V ordered several new buildings to be built, in a variety of architectural styles, including European and Chinese, as well as traditional Thai. There are numerous different buildings that are open to the public, including: Waraphatphiman Hall, to the north of the royal path leading from the river landing spot, this building was used both as living quarters for the royal family and as Throne Hall – the building that stands today is the European style replacement for the original building, that was demolished and then rebuilt under the reign of King Rama V; the Aisawanthippphaya At Pavillion was again built during the reign of Rama V, and is built in a traditional Thai design; The Phra Thingan Utthayan Phumisathian, or Garden of the Secured Land, is a Swiss chalet inspired two storey building on the east of the palace compound facing the pond, originally built in 1877, though accidentally burnt down in 1938 whilst being renovated. The building you see today was constructed in 1996; the Witthunhassana Hall is a three storey tower used by King Rama V to get the best view of the surrounding area; the Ho Hemmonthian Thewarat, or Golden Palace of the God King, is a stone prang and home to an image of a deity, built in 1879 during the rule of King Rama V; the Monument of Queen Sunantha is a hexagaonal marble building, where the ashes of King Rama V’s consort lie. The palace complex is still used from time to time by the present royal family for receptions, banquets and as a private residence. The palace is open every day from 8.30am to 4.30pm, and entrance costs 50 baht.

4. Grand Palace
Also known as the Ancient Palace, the Grand Palace is located near the city wall. Originally built by King U-Thong, the complex was subsequently extended under the reigns of several later Kings, though most of the buildings were destroyed in 1767, leaving only ruins of brick foundations and walls. The main attractions of the royal palace complex include: the Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, where a large bronze cast Buddha image can be found; the Wihan Somdet Hall, which was the first construction in Ayutthaya covered in gold leaf, which was used for various royal ceremonies, including coronations; the Phiman Rattaya Hall, a group of buildings that were once used as government offices; the Chakkrawat Phaichayon Hall, from where the king used to view processions and military exercises; the Trimuk Hall, where the consort members had their residential quarters, where the royals would relax in the garden; and the Phisai Sanyalak Hall, a four storey tower on the western edge of the complex, which now houses a museum containing china, weapons, personal effects of King Rama IV, Buddha images, sculptures and votive tablets. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday from 9am until 4pm.

5. Ancient Forts and Fortresses
There are numerous forts and fortresses located along Ayutthaya’s city walls and around the outer circle. Notable amongst these are Pom Phet Pom Ho Ratchakhru, Pom Chidkop, Pom Yai, Pom Mahachai and Pom Chompaphon. Most are located at intersections of waterways. Such as Pom Petch, which you can find where the Chao Phraya, Pa Sak and Lopburi Rivers converge. This is the one remaining fort that was restored and is therefore the best one to visit.

6. Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre
This 14 acre site in Tambon Chang Yai is where you will be able to see famers from Ayutthaya and other provinces engage in various folk arts and crafts. Activities on display include weaving, basketry, silk making and dyeing, artificial flower making, wood-carving, and furniture making. Everything you see being made can be bought at the centre. The village itself features a mixture of traditional houses built in different architectural styles, and there are various folk shows and plays put on throughout the day. You can get to Bang Sai either by road or by river. The centre is open weekdays between 8am and 4.30pm and weekends from 8am until 6pm. Admission is 100 baht for adults and 50 baht for children.

7. Japanese Village and Portuguese Village
During the time that Ayutthaya was capital of the Kingdom of Thailand, a great number of foreigners were attracted here – mainly traders, missionaries, or even as volunteer guards of the ruling monarch. There were many Japanese who arrived once the Japanese authorities granted permission to their traders to travel overseas, and these traders were given permission to settle by the King. At one time, it is thought that there were around 3000 Japanese people living in Ayutthaya. The Japanese Village is located in Tambon Ko Rein, just to the south of Wat Phananchoeng. There is also a Portuguese Village in Tambon Samphao Lom, south of the city on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. The Portuguese were amongst the first Europeans to do business and therefore settle in the city, in around 1151. Within the village, you can find the ancient ruins of the San Petro Dominican Church, antique objects including coins, tobacco pipes, and religious paraphernalia, as well as human skeletons!

8. Parks
There are a few parks and open spaces to enjoy in Ayutthaya, including the Phra Ram Park, found behind Wat Mahathat, which is a large wooded area, with various walkways, waterways and bridges, as well as statues and Buddha images. Entrance is free. There is also a good sized park at the Khun Phaen residence, a renovated teak house built in traditional style. In the background you can see Wat Phra Ram, and there are also some elephants willing to pose for tourist photos! The public park of Suan Somdet on U Thong Road, in the south west of the city houses plenty of native Thai plants, as well as numerous archaeological ruins

9. Other Palaces
The Ancient Palace, or Grand Palace is of course the most famous and most visited palace in Ayutthaya, but there are other palaces that are worth a visit; the Chankasem or Front Palace is to be found on the banks of the Pasak River, and was built during the reign of King Maha Thammaraja, who was the 17th monarch of the Ayutthayan dynasty. The palace was destroyed by the Burmese, though King Rama IV ordered its reconstruction, and the palace was then used by him on his visits to the area. The palace is now a national museum. On the east bank of the Pa Sak River lies Prasart Nakhon Luang, which was a royal residence used by monarchs when they were visiting Lop Buri and the Shrine to the Buddha’s Footprint in Saraburi.

10. Golf
Wherever you go in Thailand, it seems you are never far from a golf course, and Ayutthaya is no exception! There are three notable golf courses around Ayutthaya, including the Bang Sai Country Club, which is set in beautiful countryside, with several of the tee shots being played from elevated positions; the Northern Rangsit Golf Course is very flat, but boasts four of the longest par five holes in all of Thailand. The Muang-Ake Wang Noi Golf Course is just a 25 minute car journey from Don Muang International Airport in Bangkok, and its main feature is that each hole is arranged with water hazards! All of these courses are in easy reach of Bangkok, making them very popular.





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